Sunday, 15 May 2011

Applying Foundation

There are 4 main ways to apply foundation: Fingers - not my favourite as not only are you 'massaging' the foundation into the skin but any residue on your hands is also getting messaged in too (not so bad when you're doing it on yourself, but not so good for the client...actually want to gag when I see girls using this method to put their makeup on when on the tube!...but that's OCD for ya!).  Sponges - now, unless you're using thick cream foundation (and you should only be using the cream if you have really bad skin), I personally, wouldn't use  latex/non-latex sponges. Using the sponges with liquid foundation for me, not only wastes the product (think about it, liquid + sponge means absorption) but you're spending so much time going over the face trying to blend as you dab away, so it soaks into the sponge and dries in patches on the skin. I knew a makeup up artist who would apply liquid foundation like this in 3 layers and yes the skin looked flawless but there are more effortless ways to achieve the same look and certainly less expensive!

Airbrushing - now I lerve me a bit of airbrushing! I have the IWATA  Silver Jet Compressor which I bought 3 years ago. I don't think there is a more effortless way to apply foundation and the results are always flawless, but most people, especially when you first start out, find it hard to meet the £300+ price tag, besides, as you have to keep you eyes closed, its near on impossible to do it right on yourself. But this is by far the best for me as it uses very little product whilst giving fantastic results.



Brushes - My favourite, everyday foundation application brush is the Duo Fibre/Stipple Brush. The first one I owned was from MAC 187 Large Duo Fibre Brush (RRP £31.00) which I had to return a couple of times due to the excess shedding (clients used to end up looking like a yeti with alopecia by the time I finished!) not to be confused with their small  MAC 188 Small Duo Fibre Brush (RRP £26.00) which I use to blend near the hair line and which is still going strong.    I now have about 20 of these brushes, from different sources. Why so many? Well I do music videos and fashion shows where there are a lot of dancers and/or models and the foundation will only blend correctly if the brushes are clean. Sometimes there just isn't enough time to wash the brush in between uses(and dipping in brush cleaner is a no no, it ruins the brush). So why is this my favourite? well, like the airbrushing, you need a small amount of product as the filaments allow you to blend effortless, using feather like strokes and if you are doing HD and haven't got round to getting an airbrush kit yet, this is the closest you will get to it. They don't have to be ultra expensive either. In fact the less expensive ones have survived long after the more expensive ones have given up  for dead!   CrownBrush.co.uk C406 Large Duo Fibre Face brush £8.91  or Fero Beauty who sell their Stipple Brush (same thing) for £8.35 one third the price of  MAC or Laura Mercier versions and still going strong! Note, when washing, make sure the water is luke warm, not scalding hot, otherwise brush will remain in a droopy  position (think 90 year old without the Viagra and just as useless!)





As I said, I hate sponges, so even if I am not using liquid foundation, I will apply using a brush, but instead of the duo fibre one, I will use a flat foundation brush which again you can purchase at the high end MAC 190 Foundation brush (RRP 26.00) or the less expensive version by Fero Beauty Large Foundation Brush £9.85 these brushes are versatile as you can use them for both liquid and cream foundations (too heavy for HD TV though).




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